If you're a chemistry enthusiast with an interest in fire or history (or both), you probably ought to know how to make your own nitrocellulose. Nitrocellulose is also known as guncotton or flashpaper, depending on its intended purpose. Magicians and illusionists use flash paper for a fire special effect. The exact same material is called guncotton and may be used as a propellant for firearms and rockets. Nitrocellulose was used as a film base for movies and x-rays. It may be mixed with acetone to make nitrocellulose lacquer, which was used on automobiles, aircraft, and musical instruments. One unsuccessful use of nitrocellulose was to make faux ivory billiard balls. The camphored nitrocellulose (celluloid) balls would sometimes explode upon impact, producing a sound much like that of a gunshot. As you might imagine, this didn't go over well in gunslinger saloons with pool tables.
I doubt you will want to make your own exploding billiard balls, but you might want to try nitrocellulose as a model rocket propellant, as flash paper, or as a lacquer base. Nitrocellulose is extremely easy to make, but be sure to read through the instructions carefully before proceeding. As far as safety goes: Any protocol which involves strong acids should be performed by qualified persons wearing proper safety gear. Nitrocellulose cannot be stored for long periods of time, as it gradually decomposes into a flammable powder or goo (which is why many old films have not survived to the present day). Nitrocellulose has a low autoignition temperature, so keep it away from heat or flame (until you are ready to activate it). It does not require oxygen to burn, so once it ignites you cannot put out the fire with water. With all that in mind:
Nitrocellulose Materials
Christian Friedrich Schönbein's procedure has been widely used. It calls for 1 part cotton to 15 parts acid.
- concentrated nitric acid
- concentrated sulfuric acid
- cotton balls (almost pure cellulose)
- Chill the acids below 0°C.
- In a fume hood, mix equal parts nitric and sulfuric acid in a beaker.
- Drop cotton balls into the acid. You can tamp them down using a glass stirring rod. Don't use metal.
- Allow the nitration reaction to proceed for about 15 minutes (Schönbein's time was 2 minutes), then run cold tap water into the beaker to dilute the acid. Allow the water to run for a while.
- Turn off the water and add a bit of sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) to the beaker. The sodium bicarbonate will bubble as it neutralizes the acid.
- Using a glass rod or gloved finger, swirl around the cotton and add more sodium bicarbonate. You can rinse with more water. Continue adding sodium bicarbonate and washing the nitrated cotton until bubbling is no longer observed. Careful removal of the acid will greatly enhance the stability of the nitrocellulose.
- Rinse the nitrated cellulose and allow it to dry in a cool location.
Comments
not a stupid question, but why (what exactly happens) do you not use a metallic stiring rod?
depending on the metal, the acid might eat away or corrode the metal as you stir it. this will certainly contaminate the mixture as well as lessen the strength of the your acid.
One reason is that the acid will react with metal, not glass.
ahem….actually glass is minutely corroded by water and certainly, although minutely corroded by acids (especially conc. HNO3 and H2SO4) The metal stirring rod will dissolve and react with the acid to form a metal salt.
Is the above method will yield me Nitrocellulose (paint grade)? If not then how to obtain Nitrocellulose (Paint Grade)? Please answer me via email
Email: blue.oceanx@yahoo.com
a note to Chemist,
the only difference is that “paint grade” Nitrocellulose is dissolved in acetone.
BTW, that is what was used to make the Hindenburg leak proof.
It also made it into a giant flare.
I think it’s good to note that adding water to concentrated levels of acid especially Nitric and Sulfuric can BE VERY DANGEROUS if not done carefully… acid should ALWAYS be added into water not the other way around. Since the experiment calls for the water second, people especially kids, should take extra care in what they mix together.
Can this Nitrocellulose (Flash Paper) can be dissolved in Ethanol or Methyl Ethyl Ketone or Ethyl Acetate?
How much this Nitrogen content will this Nitrocellulose have, if I make it by the above mentioned method.
Please answer my questions via email: novle.novle@yahoo.com
There is a risk of the metal Stirring rod causing a spark, which could make a very big and loud explosion. So don’t use a metal stirring rod unless you really dislike your hand/fingers.
“I doubt you will want to make your own exploding billiard balls,”
You obviously do not know the kind of people who can type “Nitrocellulose” into a google search.
In your article you stated that “Nitrocellulose cannot be stored for long periods of time, as it gradually decomposes into a flammable powder or goo…” I would like to make paper bullets using black powder and flash paper to aid on loading my revolver at the range. If I make or order flash paper how long could I keep the paper or bullets without them decomposing?
the metal will react and you will get some hyrogen ause a usefull explosive
acids corrode glass. I suppose you could instead stir the liquids in the cup of your hand with your finger to avoid glass contamination.
The reaction of acids with metal is exothermic, will heat and accelerate the process, possibly to the point of boiling and splashing. Even more dangerous, is the instruction of adding water to the acids in the beaker! This is known for causing havoc. The cotton should be removed from the beaker and rinsed in a plastic container with large amounts of water to prevent sudden temperature rise.
The acids won’t react with the silicon, in order to to a hydrogenation on silicon you need to react it with something else first, usually magnesium. Basic Ochem, raw silicon won’t pick up a hydronium ion very easily.
Hey guyz! i found something terrible! my Nitrocellulose got dissolved in nitration solution. also the nitration solution accidently fell on my palm but nothing happent! btw those chemicals were of e.merck’s so its not fake…i did every thing correct. sulphuric acid burnt my palm and so nitric acid but the mixture didn’t. the cotton used was also clean and medical one but with expiration date gone :p plz tell Wats the problem!
glass is inert material and it can’t corode or sissolve in acid not even a bit
Actually, there are several acids that can corrode glass, especially hydrofluoric acid. Glass is not an entirely inert material.
Hi there
Excellent method, though i use KNO3 not nitric acid
now to my question: is it possible to nitrate pure glucose, so stuff like corn syrup?
would appreciate any help,
Kip
Alfred Nobel applied for a Patent on how to dilute concentrated Nitrating Acids. NEVER EVER ad water to a Concentrated Acid mixture, but always the Acid slowly to a much larger volume of Water. Hotspots wile mixing, may turn water into steam, expelling the acid mix into your face, maiming or blinding you due to the high heat formation of dissolving the two fluids.
Nitrocellulose that has even the smallest amount of nitrating acid contaminants, will eventually Auto-Catalytically decompose, Ignite, explode, and burn down your house or lab, killing you, and or other people in the process.
Nitrocellulose was band for many years due to spontaneous explosions, and almost triggered a full-scale war between nations due to these unknown properties, destroying entire munition magazines, and killing many people. The death penalty was proposed against those dealing in this extremely dangerous, and killer of many, material. Only after a lengthy and time consuming purification processes developed thereafter, was this monster tamed, and commercialized again.
Highly concentrated mixed nitrating acid, turns the flesh of a finger yellow after a short dip. The skin dies off, and can be pulled off like a glove, exposing the bare bone. Wounds are excruciatingly painful, like that of Perchloric Acid, heal very very slowly due to dead tissue, or never ever again. You are going to have to live with the damage, or get a skin transplant. Forget your eyes!
Just adding my two cents, hoping that even only one accident may be prevented, in storing this un-stabilized, or even slightly contaminated material at home near to flammable, and or in tightly contained containers (a powerful bomb!). The higher the temperature, the more contamination, the faster this material will spontaneously go off.
Based on the comments I’ve read this sounds very dangerous. also some of you say that you SOULDN’T add water to the acids while Anne up the top says you should. I would also like to point out that an exploding billiard ball would be SO cool. I need one B)
I’d like to point out that an exploding billiard ball is so cool that I’ve just made a whole table of them
Still haven’t exploded:( getting the lighter out now B)